Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
